Camino de Santiago: A Practical Day-by-Day Guide How to Organize a Solo Coastal Route in Portugal and Walk Your Own Transformational Journey
- yuliiaprybytkova
- Jul 19
- 19 min read
Plan
Introduction . Why and who should read this text. I will briefly tell you why I went to Camino and why this experience was important. You will understand who will find this text useful and how it differs from the second, spiritual part.
What is the Camino de Santiago and its varieties
A bit of history, the legend of Saint James and the meaning of Compostela. I will explain what routes there are and how they differ.
How I prepared physically and what equipment turned out to be really necessary. Why I chose the coastal route and how it differs from others.
About arriving in Porto, buying a pilgrim passport and the symbolism of the shell. How to get in the right frame of mind before the start so as not to burn out.
Day by day: route points, mileage, impressions, overnight stays and expenses. A practical analysis of the route with details and reviews.
I'll tell you how the Camino feels for a woman walking alone. What precautions helped her feel calm.
and how they dissipated What I was afraid of before the start and how each fear disappeared in the process. The main conclusion: it is worth going, even if it is scary.
Budget and what to be prepared for
I'll break down all the expenses into categories and show you how much 12 days cost. I'll explain what you'll have to deal with physically and emotionally and how to live this journey more smoothly.
Introduction
In July 2025, I decided to start all over again.
Three years before that I lived in Portugal, in a wonderful town by the ocean, just 30 km from Lisbon. I had settled in, made friends, even worked for two years in a Portuguese company in my field.
From the outside, it might seem like everything was just great for me: a safe life, blue skies, the ocean a five-minute walk away, and supportive friends.
What was left behind the scenes?
Emigration is always incredibly difficult. My relatives were in Kyiv, four thousand kilometers away, under fire every day. Despite all the external advantages, I felt the wildest loneliness, sadness and depression.
I left my office job and didn't work for almost a year. I was slowly writing my coaching program on planning, making a website, and putting myself back together piece by piece.
But I couldn’t fully launch my freelance work because I felt that something was missing in my program. And more importantly — something was missing in me.
And then I felt: it was time for a change. It was time to seriously reconsider my life, shake myself up and start moving forward.
I mapped out several stages of personal transformation: traveling, reconnecting with loved ones, and moving to another country. But the only true first step I saw was the spiritual path of a pilgrim — the Camino de Santiago.
I've done long hikes before - in the Carpathians and along the Lycian Way in Turkey. Each time I felt the physical exertion peeling away layer after layer of debris, opening up access to the inner depths.
And then... what could be more romantic than saying goodbye to a country by literally walking across it?
I planned my route, packed my gear, said goodbye to everyone, handed over my apartment, and set off towards adventure.
And it turned out to be even more fascinating than I imagined!
As a result, I wrote two large texts:
The first one is practical, literally day by day: how to plan your route, where to sleep, what to eat, how much it costs, and what to pay attention to.
The second is about the spiritual side of the path, about motivation, signs, insights and changes that I noticed in myself after returning. This is as important a part of the Camino as the practical one. So I invite you to read both articles.
P.S. If you need help in preparation - physical, mental or in setting yourself up for personal transformation - message me. I am a professional coach, and this is my job. In addition, Ik. Plus, I’ve walked this path myself and am ready to share everything that will make your journey easier and deeper. You can sign up for coaching or consultation HERE.
What is the Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago is not a single route, but a network of roads with a historical and spiritual component. These paths run through Portugal, Spain, France and a number of other European countries. But they all lead to one point - the city in northern Spain, Santiago de Compostela.
According to legend, it is there that the remains of Saint James (or, as he was called in Old Spanish, Tiago) are kept. Saint James was one of the disciples of Jesus Christ and died for his faith. It is said that his followers placed his body in a boat, and it miraculously drifted to the shores of Galicia — present-day Spain.
About 800 years later, the bishop of the small town of Padron (near Compostela) had a vision: a star pointed him to a field where, as it turned out, the relics of St. James were buried. Thus, the city of Campo-stella was born - literally a field under a shining star.
For hundreds of years, people have been walking there to touch the relics, to find inner transformation and spiritual renewal.
Preparing for the Camino de Santiago
Preparing for the Camino de Santiago begins with choosing a route: French, Portuguese (coastal or central) and many others.
These routes formed on a simple principle: “you start from where you are”. They differ in length, level of difficulty, and types of terrain.
The choice of route depends on:
where is it convenient for you to start,
how much time are you willing to devote to the trip,
what is your physical fitness level,
and what goals you want to achieve.
I walked the Portuguese Coastal Way from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. The route is about 280 km long, and I completed it in the planned 12 days. So I’ll share details specifically about this option.
Physical preparation
280 km on foot is a serious load that you need to be prepared for.
A couple of years before the Camino, not even imagining I’d one day decide to walk half a country, I started running and going to the gym. Plus, weekly hikes in Sintra and long walks by the ocean became part of my routine. So I didn’t need any special extra training for the Camino. The basic endurance was already there.
Gear
Your gear for any hike depends on:
duration,
time of year,
and travel format.
I walked in July, and that’s why I chose the route along the ocean — to avoid the worst of the heat.
I knew that my route would pass through small towns, which meant that there would always be access to food, fresh water, shops and pharmacies. I planned to spend the night in the simplest and cheapest hostels.
So my packing list turned out to be pretty minimal.
What I borrowed from friends:
Backpack (45 l)
Belt bag
What I already had:
Clothes: 2 T-shirts, 2 pairs of shorts, 2 shirts, sports top, light dress, swimsuit, warm suit for the evening (very useful!), pajamas, underwear.
Footwear: hiking shoes and flip-flops.
Sunglasses and hat.
Skin care products, SPF, cleansers, comb.
Household items: adapter-splitter for sockets, chargers and cables, mini massager, power bank, small cooler bag for snacks.
Notepad and pen.
First aid kit, bandages, spare lenses.
What I had to buy in Decathlon:
Hiking sandals
Quick Dry Towel
Sports socks
Reusable bottle
Took but could’ve skipped:
Heavy tripod
Blister cream (totally useless, waste of money)
Day 0
The route I chose started in Porto, where I had already been a couple of years ago. So I decided not to waste my energy on walking around the city and arrived by bus the day before the start to calmly prepare myself and buy a pilgrim passport. You can do this in the central cathedral of the city (Sé do Porto), the cost is only 2 euros.
Why do you need a passport and what does the shell mean?
The pilgrim's passport and shell are symbols of this journey. The passport collects stamps from places where you stop for the night, have a snack or even just buy a souvenir.
It reminded me of a treasure hunt. On the one hand, the passport is proof that you are a real pilgrim: you need it to check into municipal albergues and, at the end, to receive the Compostela certificate. On the other hand, it becomes a unique souvenir in itself: each stamp is like a small treasure that can tell a whole story.
And the shell is the main symbol of the Camino.
It can be seen everywhere: on signs, houses, churches, and, of course, on the backpacks of pilgrims. According to legend, when the body of St. James washed up on the shores of Galicia, it was covered in seashells. Since then, the shell has become a sign of pilgrims. Its shape with diverging rays symbolizes the many paths that lead to one point - Santiago de Compostela.
Today, the shell also plays a practical role:
it helps you recognize fellow pilgrims,
shows that you’re walking the Camino,
and becomes a memorable keepsake of the journey.
Usually, pilgrims buy their shell in the starting city and attach it to their backpack — as a sign of belonging to the great community of those walking this path.
Route by days
The next day I got up at 5:30, got to the Porto Cathedral and started my journey. Here's the route - day by day, with key points, overnight stays in hostels, recommendations and notes.
📍 Day 1: Porto → Labruge
Key points: Sé Catedral do Porto → Atlantic coast → Labruge
Distance covered: 22.2 km
Notes:
The morning greeted me with thick fog, it was very pleasant to walk along the ocean, but by 11 it started to get hot, a hat and SPF were very useful. Already at 13:30 I was at the first place of the night, I managed to settle in, take a shower, put things in order and have dinner in a cafe nearby.
Overnight stay: a very ascetic municipal albergue for €15, with disposable bed linen and a minimum of personal space. You can't book - they check you in as you arrive.
Costs: ~27 €.
📍 Day 2: Labruge → Póvoa de Varzim → Apúlia
Key points: long promenade, wooden boardwalks along the ocean, fishing villages
Distance covered: 25.3 km
Notes:
I love early mornings, especially by the ocean. The whole day the route stretched along a long line of wooden planks along the shore. I started listening to Eckhart Tolle for the 2nd time and probably the best book that can be imagined for such a trip.
Overnight stay: Albergue Santiago da Costa (Apúlia), municipal but cozy. Small room for three, stayed with Italian women. Cost: 15 €.
Food: pilgrim's set menu in a cafe right next to the hostel - 12 €. Fruit, snack 8 €.
Costs: ~ 33 €.
📍 Day 3: Apúlia → Chafé
Key points: coastline, village paths, short stops at cafes
Distance covered: 25.7 km
Notes:
I planned to go with new acquaintances, but left a little earlier, hoping that the girls would quickly catch up with me - my legs were already bleeding on the third day. As a result, I walked the whole day again on the wedge with my thoughts. I met the girls only the next day.
Overnight: Casa do Campo do Forno (Chafé) – stone-style guesthouse, cozy garden, private room with double bed and bathroom. Price – 30 €.
Food: I had dinner right at the hostel - I bought a pack of pasta and a can of tuna right at the hostel, there were no shops or restaurants nearby.
Costs: ~35 €.
📍 Day 4: Chafé → Anha → Viana de Castelo → Carreço → Âncora
Key points: small villages, forest areas, the city of Viana do Castelo
Distance covered: 24.5 km
Notes:
The route mostly went through villages, the roads were rocky and uncomfortable for the feet. In Viana de Castelo I stopped for coffee and really wanted to go back there again, the town is really nice. In the evening we sat in the hostel with other pilgrims, shared food and conversations.
Overnight stay: Guest House Pereira (Âncora) is a very modest hostel, but at least with bed linen, good food and a small terrace. Cost: €15.
Food : I bought it at the supermarket and cooked it myself - 13 €.
Costs : ~28 €.
📍 Day 5: Âncora → Moledo → Caminha → boat → A Guarda → Portecelo → Oia
Key points: the ferry at Caminha, the beach Praia de Composancos, the forested island with pine trees
Distance covered: 27.4 km
Notes:
The day turned out to be very hard. I was tired by 9 am. From Caminha to Peixe (in Spain) we had to cross by boat, but something went wrong and we were brought to the other bank, adding a good 4 km to the route. The wind was blowing, I had to protect my ears with a towel. I reached the house with a view of the ocean literally on my last strength.
Overnight stay : Casa a Picota (Oia) - a house with a beautiful view of the ocean, a room for two, but I lived alone. Cost - 30 €.
Food : had breakfast with Italian women in Caminha (8.5 €), boat crossing - 6 €.
Costs : ~44.5 €.
📍 Day 6: Oia → Baiona → A Ramallosa
Key points: the coast, the old center of Baiona
Distance covered : 24 km
Notes :
This day was calmer and easier. The route went along the coast, the views were pleasant, and the old town of Bayona pleased with its atmosphere. I walked slowly to recover from the previous day. In the evening I checked into the monastery-hospital and finally rested. It's a pity that this hostel did not have a kitchen, and there was an excellent supermarket with seafood nearby.
Overnight stay : Albergue-Hospedería Pazo Pías (A Ramallosa) – an old monastery-hospital, private room for €21.
Food : supermarket purchases - €22, body cream - €3.
Costs : ~47 €.
📍 Day 7: A Ramallosa → Vigo
Key points: coastal villages, urban area of Vigo
Distance covered : 17.7 km
Notes :
In the morning I met two sisters from Denmark and walked with them all day, we talked and laughed a lot, discussed various topics. We reached Vigo together, but there our paths diverged. After checking in, I went to the post office to send a forgotten key and then met Tanya and her daughter for dinner (we met 2 months ago at a retreat).
Overnight stay : R4 Vigo Hostel (Vigo) — small hostel in the center, no kitchen, but convenient location. Cost — 22 €.
Food : Fabulous dinner at Restaurante O Portón – recommend the grilled mini squid and clams €28.
Costs : ~50 €.
📍 Day 8: Vigo → Redondela
Key points: Vigo Marina → Senda da Auga forest trail → Arcada → Redondela
Distance covered : 13.2 km
Notes :
Senda da Auga is a flat and pleasant forest area, a great rest for the legs after the previous days. But this day was the hardest emotionally: I felt sad and tearful, I felt very lonely. I arrived in Redondela early and spent the rest of the day planning the next stages of the route and treating myself with cookies and local pies (a working medicine!) The next morning I felt as fresh as a cucumber!
Overnight stay : Casa de Herbe (Redondela) - 17 €, in the city centre, simple option.
Food : supermarket groceries - €21
Costs : ~39 €.
📍 Day 9: Redondela → Pontevedra
Key points: the historic Ponte Sampaio bridge, the village of Arcade (oysters), forests and countryside
Distance covered : 18.2 km
Notes :
The day started with crossing the historic Ponte Sampaio bridge, and then the route went along the river. In the evening in Pontevedra I checked into the best hostel of the whole trip, where I met an American, Alex, and a Spaniard, Vincenzo. Cool guys.
Overnight stay : Hostel Charino (Pontevedra) - 28 €, great hostel, very modern and cozy and with a great breakfast. And the town is cool too!
Food : dinner with the girls - €20, coffee and eclair - €4.20.
Costs : ~52.2 €.
📍 Day 10: Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis
Key points: San Mauro → Briallos → Caldas de Reis (thermal city)
Distance covered : 19.6 km
Notes :
The route went through green countryside and forests. The final town is famous for its hot springs, but after talking with the gpt chat, I didn't want to warm up my sore feet in the public thermal baths. From that day on, the approach of the holiday was felt in the air: there were more pilgrims, many started their journey from Tui and walked the last 100 km to get a pilgrim certificate (it turns out that's enough).
Overnight stay : GBC Hostel Caldas de Reis - 20 €, large garden, nice to relax outside.
Food : Alex and I went for coffee, stayed in the same cafe for a set lunch - 20 €, food - 8 €.
Costs : ~48 €.
📍 Day 11: Caldas de Reis → Padrón
Key points: Carracedo → Pontecesures → Padrón (place of the legend of the boat of the apostle James)
Distance covered : ~20 km
Notes :
A flat and calm section. The closer the finish was, the stronger the general mood of joy and unity of people was felt.
Overnight stay : O Albergue da Meiga (Padrón) — the worst option for the whole route in terms of price-quality ratio. At least I arrived early and took a bed by the window. Cost — 21 €.
Food : snacks and lunch in a cafe.
Costs : ~30 €.
📍 Day 12: Padrón → Santiago de Compostela
Key points: Iria Flavia → Milladoiro → Santiago (Pilgrim Office)
Distance covered : ~25 km
Notes :
The final long stage through historic villages was tough, but the joy of the finish was already in the air. The atmosphere of the pre-finish was special: people who had walked 800 km, 280 km or just 100 km were already celebrating their journey. In the city center there was a lot of music, laughter and hugs.
Overnight stay : Albergue Seminario Menor - 29 €, large hostel.
What to do in Santiago:
Get the Compostela at the Pilgrim's Office (Rúa das Carretas, 33)
Visit the Cathedral
Take a stroll through the Old Town
In the evening, climb to the viewpoints of Monte do Gozo or Monte Pedroso and eat ice cream
Go to mass (I was there for only 10 minutes and then went to meet some Italian girls)
Dinner at the best place on the whole route - Tapas Petiscos Do Cardeal , where one tapas is a full meal
Atmosphere in Santiago:
The city literally pulsates with joy! People flocked from all routes, some walked 800 km, some 280, some only 100 km - but everyone celebrated their challenge. In the square near the cathedral, people smiled, danced, hugged.
If possible, stay here for a couple of days to recover and experience everything more deeply.
Safety precautions on the way
Of course, before the start I was worried, I thought: here I am, a single woman, going to wander through the forests and fields - how safe is it anyway?
But from the very first days I realized that I did not feel any threat. Not once during the entire journey was there a situation or place where I became truly scared.
And yet I observed basic safety precautions:
She left at dawn and always arrived before dark. The latest arrival was around 4:00 PM.
I followed the route exactly. It mostly goes through villages and towns where there are always people.
There was always internet and communication: two phones, a power bank.
Every day she made herself known. She posted updates on Telegram and Instagram. And once, when I was late with the post, my loved ones immediately wrote to ask if everything was okay.
Here, by the way, is a link to my Telegram channel in Russian. There I share my adventures and insights in real time.
Atmosphere and people on the Way
In the first part of the route there were few pilgrims, but closer to the middle the situation changed. From the 10th day, when those who had walked the last 100 km (for example, starting from Tui) began to join the path, the flow of people noticeably increased. Along with this, a special feeling of general movement and even celebration appeared.
There are many women on the Camino who walk alone. And this is perceived as absolutely normal. The people around are very open, friendly and always ready to help.
I remember one case: a teenage pilgrim fell off his bike and got hurt. Literally in a minute, other pilgrims gathered around him – someone got a first aid kit, someone supported him morally. I gave him hydrogen peroxide and napkins, someone treated the wound.
And this feeling – if something happens, help will appear instantly – it is constantly present on the Path.
Already on the last day I heard a story about a woman complaining about an attempt at violence. And I thought: thank God I heard this only at the end, otherwise unnecessary fears could have prevented me from enjoying the road. But even with this knowledge, the Camino feels like a very safe route, where people and support are always nearby.
In addition, the route passes through populated areas where you can meet the police, find medical assistance, and go to an albergue.
My conclusion: The Camino de Santiago is one of the safest trips you can take alone, but it is important to remain alert and take basic precautions.
My fears and what happened to them
I went on the Way of Santiago with four main fears:
That there will be no place to spend the night.
That I'll get lost.
That I will be bored or lonely.
That I basically won’t be able to walk such a distance.
And now, having gone through it, I realize how great it was that I went despite these fears. In the process, each of them dissipated, and my faith in myself - the knowledge that I am stronger than I thought - became the main insight of this path.
Let me tell you a little more in detail.
Fear #1: That there won't be a place to stay overnight
I was afraid that I would come to the albergue and there would be no places. Especially in high season, when there are a lot of people on the route.
How did it turn out in reality?
The first 5 nights I didn't book in advance at all. I just chose one of the hostels along the way, planned the route and showed up. And there was a place everywhere.
Towards the finish line I sometimes booked hostels a day or two in advance, but this was more due to the general excitement and the feeling that there were more and more people than out of any real need.
Fear #2: That I'll get lost
I thought that my phone might run out of battery, the map would be unclear, and there would be insufficient signs.
The reality turned out to be different:
There are a lot of signs along the Path - arrows, shells, tiles literally at every turn.
There are always people you can join and walk with.
Plus I had apps with directions that showed my point on the map.
So this fear literally went away on the very first day.
By the way, here is a list of all the apps that really came in handy along the way 🔽
Fear #3: That I'll be bored or lonely
In reality, everything turned out to be completely different:
The first part of the journey I didn't even want to talk to anyone. I listened to an amazing audiobook, sometimes got tired of it and just walked, thinking about my thoughts.
This period of silence and solitude turned out to be very valuable. If you walk in company all the time, you are kind of distracted from the hardships of the path, but at the same time there is no time to "steam" in your thoughts. And this was important to me.
The feeling of loneliness came over me only on the eighth day. In the town of Redondela I became incredibly sad and cried.
And here's what turned out to be surprising:
When I shared this with a girl named Alex, she said she had had more than one emotional breakdown day, too. We talked and realized that this was completely normal.
Why does this happen?
physical fatigue accumulates,
the days of the cycle coincided for many,
you become more sensitive and vulnerable.
This high sensitivity sometimes results in tears. But tears cleanse.
Fear #4: Will I even be able to go this route?
In summary:
Yes, I can.
No, it's not crazy. It's just an adventure.
And now in any difficult situation I tell myself: “ It’s just an adventure ” and it becomes a little easier.
Travel budget
I have already shown the travel budget above in the section "Itinerary by days". Here I will simply collect all the expense items in one place and calculate the total amount.
My expense items:
Transport - 40 € Getting to Porto - 7 €. Departure from Santiago to the next point of the route - 33 €.
A day in Porto before the start - 30 € I arrived the day before the start to rest and buy a pilgrim passport.
Albergue accommodation - €262 12 nights in pilgrim hostels, prices ranged from €15 to €30 per night.
Meals - 310 € Grocery stores, daytime snacks, dinners in cafes and pilgrim menu.
Equipment - 68 € Sandals, sports socks, reusable bottle, quick-drying towel.
Small items - around €26 Shell, pilgrim passport, body cream, eye drops, boat crossing.
Total: about €740
What should you be prepared for on the Path?
First of all, to physical activity. Camino is dozens of kilometers with a backpack on your back every day. No matter how much you train, fatigue will still accumulate. And physical activity always affects your emotional state.
It may happen that you are very tired and feel especially vulnerable. Don't be afraid of your emotions, your tears - this is absolutely normal. This happened to me, and this happened to other pilgrims. The Camino seems to "bare" you, makes you thinner, more sensitive. And this has its own value.
Remember: you can always take a day off. It’s okay to stop in a town, just to rest. I had originally planned to do so, but in the end I didn’t take advantage of the opportunity. When a friend of mine suggested staying in Vigo for a day and going to her for a massage, for some reason I declined. I decided it was important for me to stay in the rhythm of movement – and moved on.
But you can do it differently: linger, take a break, go for a massage, a sauna, a spa treatment, or just sleep and do nothing. We all live the Camino in our own way, and it is important to allow the process and yourself in this process to open up.
By the way, there is a convenient backpack transportation service - and it is quite inexpensive: only €6 for one point on the route, and you can complete the stage light. One of the girls I met on the way did just that, and it helped her a lot.
The unique part of the Camino is the people.
The friendliness you encounter along the way is unforgettable. Not only the pilgrims, but also the locals. They constantly greet you with the words "Buen Camino!" - in Portuguese or Spanish. And it touches the depths of your soul. You get the feeling that you are welcome everywhere and you are never alone.
And perhaps most importantly, be prepared to surprise yourself.
You are capable of much more than you think. Along the way, you will probably discover something in yourself that you did not even suspect.
If you want to dive deeper into this experience, think about the question you will take with you on your trip in advance, choose a good book and take a diary with a pen, and a couple of exercises "to think about". But I will tell you about this in the second article.
And if after Camino you feel that you want to continue to put your life in order, then in September 2025, groups will start on the program “ From Life Vision to Order in the Closet ”.
Over 15 weeks in a small group, you will analyze everything from your list of goals and plans to your wardrobe and personal library, and most importantly, you will create a vision of life and understand what is really important to you.
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